Get Rid of Mice in Your Attic (Permanent Fix)

The #1 mistake: Trapping mice without sealing entry points means new ones move in within days. Fix order: seal → trap → clean → prevent.

Phase 1: Seal Entry Points (Do This First)

Mice squeeze through holes the size of a dime. Inspect the exterior where roof meets walls, around vents, pipes, and eaves.

1. Seal gaps under 1/4 inch with silicone caulk
2. Stuff 1/4 to 1/2 inch gaps with copper mesh (mice can't chew it), then seal with expanding foam
3. Cover larger openings with 1/4-inch hardware cloth, secured with screws
4. Check weatherstripping on attic access door

Critical: Do this BEFORE trapping, or you're just rotating mice.

Phase 2: Trap Existing Mice

Snap traps work best — humane, instant, reusable. Place 5-10 traps along walls where you see droppings. Bait with peanut butter or chocolate (better than cheese).

1. Set traps perpendicular to walls, trigger side facing the wall
2. Check daily, dispose of dead mice in sealed bags
3. Reset until you go 5+ days with no catches

Why not poison? Mice die inside walls, causing smell for weeks. Snap traps = controlled removal.

Phase 3: Clean & Sanitize

Mice leave urine and droppings that attract new mice and carry hantavirus.

1. Wear N95 mask and gloves
2. Spray droppings with disinfectant, let sit 5 minutes (prevents airborne particles)
3. Wipe up with paper towels, double-bag and discard
4. Vacuum insulation only if heavily soiled — consider replacing contaminated sections

Phase 4: Long-Term Prevention

• Trim tree branches within 6 feet of roof (mice use them as highways)
• Store attic items in sealed plastic bins, not cardboard
• Remove food sources — ensure kitchen trash is sealed, pet food stored in airtight containers

Pro tip: After sealing and trapping, sprinkle a thin line of flour near old entry points. Check weekly — if you see tiny footprints, you missed a hole. Mice are most active at night, so inspect with a flashlight after dark to spot active gaps (you may see them squeezing through).