Most AC failures boil down to three culprits: low refrigerant (leak somewhere), a bad compressor clutch (won't engage), or a clogged cabin air filter (restricted airflow). Start with the cheapest diagnostics first.
If the compressor engages but air isn't cold, you likely need refrigerant. Warning: overcharging damages the system — follow gauge instructions exactly. Most cars use R-134a (pre-2017) or R-1234yf (2017+). Check your hood sticker for which type.
If airflow is weak but the compressor runs, the cabin filter is likely clogged with dust/leaves. Located behind the glove box or under the hood near the windshield. YouTube "[your car year/model] cabin air filter replacement" — it's usually 4 clips, no tools.
Pro tip: Run your AC for 10 minutes once a month year-round, even in winter. This circulates oil and prevents seals from drying out and cracking — the #1 cause of leaks in cars that sit unused.
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For 2017+ vehicles using the newer refrigerant. More expensive but necessary for newer cars.
Socket set with ratchet covers 80% of car repairs. Get metric and SAE.
Add to refrigerant to trace leaks. Only needed if you suspect a slow leak and want to DIY diagnose before paying a shop.
Optional but useful. Shine on AC lines after adding UV dye (sold separately) to spot leaks glowing green/yellow.
Reads check engine codes. Saves $100+ in diagnostic fees at the mechanic.
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